Singapore: Up in Smoke

Flying to Singapore

After five nights in the scorching humidity of Dubai, we awoke at around 3am (more easily done given our continuing jet lag) to get ready for our flight to Singapore. We'd packed up (all eight pieces of luggage) the night before, using each other's weight to sit on the cases to make sure they zipped up tight. Fortunately, two Volvo station wagons from Emirates (the version used for business class passengers - first class folks get Mercedes) were awaiting us in the hotel's drive.

Check in was a breeze. Emirates has a dedicated terminal area solely for business and first class departures. Immigration and security was a breeze (the security agent wasn't even looking at the monitor as our bags went through the screening machine). We boarded an elevator, and like Dorothy leaving Kansas, we stepped out on the departure level to a whole new world filled with throngs of passengers in transit, all scurrying to get to whichever gate they were headed. It seemed like we were salmon spawning upstream - a river of people marching against us as we headed towards the business class lounge.

As in Seattle, there was a hiccup in our record in that the agents were confused as to whether or not we were entitled to lounge access. She even asked if I was an employee traveler, but I corrected her, telling her we used Alaska Airlines miles to book these award tickets. After getting an override from her supervisor, we were given passage.

The lounge stretches 150 yards down the terminal. Comprised of the entire second floor over this length, both sides of the lounge look down on the main terminal floor through the long space that runs down the middle. There are several dining areas, lots of sitting areas, chaise lounges (that were filled) for sleeping passengers, shower facilities, a business center, kids facilities and even a smoking lounge.

After a quick breakfast (all Halal - there is no pork bacon, they offered a veal alternative), we made our way to gate B25, a five minute walk from the lounge. After presenting our boarding passes, we waiting near the boarding doors, knowing we'd be among the first to board since we were in business class (no first class this leg - there are three flights that offer it to Singapore, but none had space).

When boarding was called, even though it was only for business class, the entire waiting lounge surged towards the doorway. It reminded me of that helicopter atop of the US embassy in Saigon, getting the last Americans and others out of Vietnam. The doorway was swarmed, but like a good marine, the agent blocked the economy passengers as we pushed our way through the crowd and onto the jetway. Leslie was so annoyed. She was hot and tired, and now all these people cutting in front of her without even an 'excuse me.' She was definitely close to snapping. Luckily, we got settled in quickly, with Lily and I in one row, and Leslie and Liam just ahead of us (the cabin had a 2-3-2 configuration).

The flights were uneventful. Four hours to Colombo, Sri Lanka, and hour on the ground (were we stayed on board during the layover), then another four hour flight to Singapore. We left Dubai at 7am and arrived in Singapore at 8pm - a full day's travel (including a four hour time change).

As our 777-300ER dipped below the clouds, I noticed we were descending through a thick fog. Upon disembarking, the jetway was smoky and filled with a smell that immediately reminded me of Mumbai - the smell of burning jungle. I thought we'd escape once we hit the air conditioned terminal, but the smell was persistent. We had two Emirates provided cars waiting for us, and on the drive in, we finally learned the source of the smoke. A few hundred miles to the west, on the island of Sumatra, thousands of acres of slash and burn fires were dumping smoke onto the winds that pushed into Singapore. Visibility was only a few hundred yards, and we didn't see our Marina Bay Sands hotel (a massive structure) until we were arriving.

Singapore Slung

I had so many high expectations for our visit to Singapore. A nice 10-15 degree decrease in temperature would make being outside more bearable than in Dubai. Our jet lag was mostly over, giving us more energy to sojourn outside to different parts of the city. However, the haze (a.k.a. smoke) was overwhelming. While we were there, the Pollution Standards Index (PSI) ranged from 167 (stay indoors) to over 400 (life threatening to the elderly and the ill). The haze filled the hotel's massive lobby, and the smell permeated even into the hotel hallways and our rooms themselves. We had a beautiful view of the downtown business district - well, we would have had a nice view if we could have seen anything.



The massive lobby of the Marina Bay Sands

What did we end up doing? Not a whole lot. One afternoon, the wind picked up and the haze cleared enough to where we felt it was safe to spend some time at the iconic rooftop infinity pool. Stretching across 100+ yards, the pool curves towards the city ever so subtly, with palm trees lining the deck.

The Marina Bay Sands pool in less hazy times

Liam about to cannonball

Lily and Liam showing off their moves

Lily and Liam

Lily

Liam and Daddy

Yours Truly

Leslie by the pool

Liam

The view from the pool in clearer times

How did we spend the rest of our time? Liam and I visited the Arts & Science museum, which was showcasing a cool mummy exhibit. It was fascinating to learn just how mummies were embalmed, and all the care was taken to ensure the souls of the dead's passage into the after world. While we were at the museum, Leslie and Lily were enjoying a pedicure at the hotel's Banyan Tree spa.

Given that the hotel's breakfast buffet for four cost $135 in US dollars, we ate most of our meals at the food court in the adjacent mall. Not just your run of the mill gathering of different fast food brands, but dozens of different ethnic foods - from Vietnamese to Thai to Malaysian to Pilipino - were represented. It was so delicious, and compared to a sit down meal, very inexpensive (about $10US a plate).

Lily and Leslie in the Hotel Lobby

Liam in the lobby

See the haze throughout the lobby?

Three nights in Singapore, and we didn't end up doing a whole lot. If we had known it was going to be so smoky, we would have skipped this stop entirely. With the smoke at such high levels, we even skipped going to a barbecue dinner being hosted by my friend who lives in Singapore. As we packed for our departure, we were hoping that this smoke wasn't going to impact the part of Thailand to which were heading. We hoped.