Saturday, February 25, 2017

Long Journey to Southeast Asia


"It ain’t the years, sweetheart; it’s the mileage"

- Indiana Jones



We planned this trip back in October of 2015; it was like a puzzle - we spent weeks debating over destinations until logistical practicalities (driven by seasonal climate and frequent flier mileage flight availability) landed us on our final itinerary.

Our Route to Cambodia


We used Alaska Airlines miles to book our international legs (we ended up buying revenue tickets for some shorter hops along the way in-region). We knew we had a long two days of travel ahead of us. SEA>LAX (2.5 hours), LAX>Dubai (15.5 hours), Dubai>Bangkok (5.5 hours) and finally, Bangkok>Siem Reap (45min). Fortunately, we were booked in first class in Emirates for all but the final flight to Cambodia, which meant that we could get ample rest in the air. However, even though I got a solid 8 hours of sleep on the long flight to Dubai, the crush of time zone changes, long stretches in the air with low humidity and high cabin atmospheric pressure took its toll on my body.

Our first flight was on Alaska Airlines in its newly configured first class. On their 737-800s, one row of first class was taken out, leaving only 3 rows and 12 seats, but with several more inches of legroom (that was always one of my complaints with Alaska - its first class legroom wasn't much more than economy - in fact, I preferred the exit rows in coach given the ample space for my 6'6" frame).

Bright and excited on our first flight (SEA>LAX)

Descent into LAX

I wanted to experience Emirates' A380, which features two decks - the bottom deck is entirely economy (cramming 399 seats into its length), while the upper deck is split between first class in the front with 14 suites, and 76 business class seats in the back section. Moreover, first class offers two large shower suites, where passengers can book 30 minutes to shower (though the actual shower time is limited to 5 minutes of water, which can be turned off and on) in spacious splendor, offering a variety of amenities (shampoos, body wash, heated floors, etc.). At the rear of the upper deck is a horseshoe shaped bar, where business and first class passengers can stretch their legs and socialize (though during my couple of visits, only a few people lingered).

Emirates A380-800 Upper Deck



Dom is a perk of Emirates First Class (I'm such a peasant, that I can't taste how it's better)


Leslie relaxing in her Emirates first class suite

Our layovers were numerous, with 4+ hours at LAX, 4 hours at DXB, and 5 hours at BKK. Nonstop exhaustion was the theme, as evidenced by all the photos of Leslie napping. :)




 

Upon arrival in Bangkok, after clearing immigration, we discovered that one of our bags was crushed en route, exposing the innards (though nothing spilled out); a total loss. We were completely exhausted, sweating non-stop since the airport’s air-conditioning was in a losing battle with the thick humidity and heat. Though we filed a claim with Emirates, we had to bite the bullet and buy a new piece of luggage at the airport (at airport prices – though, fortunately, Bangkok airport prices).

Monks are clearly respected in Bangkok


For our final leg, we enjoyed a short 45 minute flight on what appeared to be a fairly new Airbus 320. We were amazed, as our expectation for service was what one would see on a US domestic flight of similar length; that we’d be lucky to get a glass of water before descent began. These flight attendants sprang into action, distributing *meals* for the full flight of passengers. Both Leslie and I were impressed at the well oiled machine. Just as quickly, everything was cleared away, and we were wheels down in Siem Reap. 

Cambodia requires a visa for entry, but they offer a VOA (visa on arrival) – all that is needed is a completed form, a passport photo, and $25US. It was a fascinating example of bureaucracy at work. We got in line, handed our required materials over to the officer, then were told to wait at the far end of the counter. There were no less than seven officers in an assembly line, each clearly tasked with a single responsibility. Even in our exhausted state, Leslie and I chuckled at the last two individuals in the process. They were texting away on their phones as they awaited the next set of passports. Even as we saw our passports passed to him, he just let them sit there until he was good and ready to set down his phone and put a final ink stamp on the visa. 

After a final line up for immigration (where oddly, both photo and digital fingerprints were taken – seemed overkill for a country like Cambodia), we claimed our luggage (no damage, yeah!), and paid for a mini-van taxi ($7!) which took us the 15 minutes to our hotel.

After check-in, we fought to stay awake as long as possible, but finally succumbed around 4pm. We had awoken at home around 2:30am on Thursday (2/16), mostly due to the excitement of the trip. Upon arrival in Cambodia, we been on the go for just under 48 hours (out of that, I’d say I got around 7 hours of sleep on the plane). After all that travel, I was hoping that exhaustion would provide me with a solid night’s sleep.

Jet lag laughed. I was wide awake at 1am. Welcome to Cambodia, Eric.